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Post by HOOK on Jan 14, 2009 9:47:07 GMT -5
over half of the leading nascar teams use joe gibbs oil. i dont see them blowing up motors. you might like to talk to your motor builder about oil or read about it? I went to the JGibbs oil page as well as the BPenn oil page there is a ton of info, at those sites. Didn't realize that oils could be so specific for an application, with regards to bearing clearances etc. I know the importance of clearances, just didn't know how customized the oils were. The input you guy's have posted on this thread is awesome! Kinda strange being an actual "racin'" topic with great discussion from teams and racers of the sport....... Ronnie
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Post by linda1 on Jan 14, 2009 10:05:44 GMT -5
The only oil you want to run is the Gibbs or the Penn or any with the high zink. The weight of the oil is not as important as the zink. I personally have watched a $50,000 drag motor run on dyno with Zero wt. oil. The car runs on Zero wt and run at almost 160 mph. If I had not seen this I would not believe it . I think if your smart if your running solid lift cam to run zinc oils and Lucas additive. The wear on solid and hyd. cams is hard on parts. Comp cam has a new harding process you can order that is worth the added money. Just ask them about it. But still run the good oil. The 50wt. oil are thing of the past. Good luck to every one in 2009. Mike
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Post by Challenger 75R on Jan 14, 2009 12:34:59 GMT -5
Welp we run the oil that we do because we have never had a motor problem due to oil break down or oil just not holding up. I run the same stuff the old man did years ago he didn't have any problems and I haven't yet. KNOCK ON WOOD!! LOL The only thing that has ever went bad on the oil side of our rides was when back in the day he tried to use a cheap nonracing version oil filter and it collapsed. Put a good filter on it and ran good again!
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Post by DIRT75 on Jan 14, 2009 12:39:20 GMT -5
Not plugging any certain brand, but want to share what I know on this. I work for the oil company that makes Pennzoil, Rotella, and Quaker State. I spent the day yesterday at our Technology Center that blends oils of all types. The guy I was with works with Richard Childress and Hendrick race teams formulating their specific oils. We talked a lot about what you should look for in a racing oil.
Zinc is your friend. If you are running a flat tappet motor, you definitely need an oil with added Zinc. Off the shelf motor oil for your grocery getter no longer has the amount of zinc necessary for your racer. Most street cars now have roller lifters and don't need as much zinc because there is not as much friction produced as flat tappet lifters. So oil companies started cutting back on Zinc since it is no longer needed. Without the right amount of zinc, you are basically rounding off your cam lobes. Sometimes quickly, sometimes slow enough you don't notice it right away. You have probably heard of guys destroying cams during break in. Basically you need a racing oil that has this stuff....whatever brand.
What Weight? Since most race engines tend to run hotter, you are better off with heavier oil. A 20W50 or 25W50 is good because the oil is thinner on start up for protection and then gives good protection when hot. All oil is formulated to get to a certain level depending on what heat is applied to it. So a 25 first number means the oil will get to that point quicker during warm up. Once it get to operating temperature the heavier additives kick in for the right protection when it gets hot. You could run a lighter oil like a 10W30 if your car runs cool enough. I just don't like to take that chance.
Synthetic or conventional? The guy said he likes a conventional oil for dirt racing a little better because it tends to suspend the junk in the oil better when it gets dirty and carries it to the filter so it doesn't circulate through the motor. Synthetic tends to be better under extreme heat conditions.
I have been running Pennzoil GT 25W50 Racing Oil the past 5 years. It has the zinc and other additives that work well with all racing fuels. My motor builder was impressed with the condition of the motor during a rebuild, he now uses it and recommends it to his customers. Nearly every parts store can get this for you. It usually doesn't cost much more than regular oil.
Not trying to be Mr. Know it all....just trying to help.
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Post by Challenger 75R on Jan 14, 2009 13:24:34 GMT -5
Now there is some good input
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Post by racingmouth on Jan 14, 2009 13:29:02 GMT -5
NOTHING LIKE GETTIN FROM THE SOURCE THAT IS GREAT INFO!
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Post by jmac7121w on Jan 14, 2009 13:49:08 GMT -5
Well you guy's made me ? my choice in oil and it looks like I made a good choice so here is some more info..........Valvoline offers two solutions to the zinc issue Valvoline Racing VR1: 75% higher zinc than SM engine oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: SAE 20W-50 (part vv211), straight SAE 50 (part vv235), SAE 10W-30 (part vv205), SAE 30(part vv223), SAE 40 (part vv229), and SAE 60 (part vv241) Longer-Lasting Zinc/Phosphorus: Valvoline uses an advanced zinc/phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the engine oil where it protects the engine, instead of poisoning the catalytic converter. Valvoline is the only brand offering this unique additive across its entire line of passenger car engine oils, including SynPower which is the only synthetic offering this additive. www.valvoline.com
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Post by spcman on Jan 14, 2009 19:12:34 GMT -5
i dont need to talk a motor builder i wasnt the one using the gibbs oil. and it wasnt my motors that were blowing up. i was just saying what happened to a friend of mine. he gets his engine from blueprint, they told him to use the oil. and coincidentally, since he quit using the high dollar gibbs stuff, he hasnt had any engine problems.
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Post by HUGHESracing10 on Jan 14, 2009 22:06:42 GMT -5
We have a guy come into oreilly that only gets rotella 15-40 because its one of the few oils that we actually have with the zinc in it. Most any conventional oil anymore is just recycled with additives to get it to performing level. unless its a synthetic.
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Post by racinnut15xm on Jan 18, 2009 21:18:14 GMT -5
go to 4m.net and search oils and you will find countless threads like this. oils have changed alot in the last 2years. need to be very careful what you pick. mine would be amsoil, schaeffers, brad penn or joe gibbs.
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